How to Care For Your Watch
Imagine investing the research and money into a beautifully crafted, high-performance marvel of mechanical engineering, giving it pride of place in your collection, admiring and using it daily… only to never give it a detail or take it in for a service.
No, we’re not referring to a rare collector car (in this article, anyway), but rather, a collector watch. As practical devices, fashion accessories, and investment pieces, watches often carry significant personal, sentimental and monetary value, and, like any precision instrument, they require regular servicing to maintain their functionality and longevity. Whether your timepiece is a daily go-to, or only brought out for the most deserving of occasions, proper maintenance ensures that it remains in excellent condition—offering accurate timekeeping and preserving its aesthetic appeal and resale value.
Guided by our resident watch expert Sam Shaw, we’ve put together a brief guide on how to mindfully and proactively care for your watch in order to keep it ticking along in style for years to come.
Day to Day Care
Proper care is essential to keep your watch ticking flawlessly and looking its best. Here are a few habits you can get into to keep your timepiece in top condition.
Keeping it clean
Clean your watch regularly to remove dirt, sweat, and oils that can accumulate over time. Use a soft, lint-free cloth to wipe the case and strap. For more thorough cleaning, use a damp cloth with mild soap and water. Never submerge your watch in water unless it is water-resistant.
Keep your watch away from chemicals such as detergents, perfumes, and lotions. These can damage the watch's materials, especially leather straps and gaskets.
Handling and Storage
Avoid subjecting your watch to extreme temperatures, strong magnetic fields, and physical shocks. These can affect the accuracy and performance of the movement. Remove your watch during activities like heavy lifting, sports, and manual labour.
When you’re not wearing your watch, store it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Use a watch box or a soft pouch to prevent scratches and damage. For automatic watches, consider using a watch winder to keep them running when not in use.
If your watch is manual or automatic, wind it regularly to keep the movement lubricated and functioning correctly. For manual watches, wind the crown until you feel resistance, but avoid over-winding. When setting the time, avoid setting the date between 9 PM and 3 AM, as this can damage the date mechanism.
Understand your watch's water resistance rating. Even water-resistant watches should avoid hot showers, saunas, and rapid temperature changes, which can compromise the seals.
Strap and Bracelet Care
Leather Straps: Leather straps are susceptible to sweat and moisture. Rotate between different straps to extend their lifespan. Clean leather straps with a damp cloth and let them air dry. Avoid exposing leather to direct sunlight for prolonged periods.
Metal Bracelets: Clean metal bracelets with a soft brush and mild soapy water. Dry thoroughly to prevent water spots. For stubborn grime, use a toothbrush to clean between the links. Regularly check for loose screws or damaged links and have them fixed by a professional if needed.
Rubber and Fabric Straps: These straps are generally more durable and can be cleaned with mild soap and water. Rinse thoroughly and let them air dry.
Some of the watches in the February—March Important Jewels, Watches & Luxury Accessories online auction
BVLGARI, Serpenti Turbogas Double Spiral, Steel / 18ct Rose Gold Wristwatch, circa 2015.
Est. $22,000 - $26,000
Chanel, J12 Chronomatic Titanium-Ceramic / Cognac Sapphire Wristwatch, circa 2012.
Est. $28,000 - $32,000
Stainless Steel, 40mm Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona Wristwatch, circa 2011.
Est. $36,000 - $38,000
Audemars Piguet, 44mm Royal Oak Offshore Forged Carbon, Titanium / Ceramic Chronograph Wristwatch.
Est. $40,000 - $45,000
Why servicing matters
Reliability
Over time, the internal components of a watch can become worn or misaligned, leading to discrepancies in timekeeping, says Sam. “Periodic servicing is important to protect the watch from wear and keep its accuracy. Like any mechanical device, watches use oil and lubricants to run… not dissimilar to your car. They don’t drink gallons of the fluid but rely on tiny measured droplets applied strategically to let the watch run as smoothly and ‘friction-free’ as possible, over time these dry and require cleaning of components and replacing. If this doesn’t happen components can become worn, leading to more costly future repair bills”.
Longevity
A well-maintained watch can last for generations, becoming a cherished heirloom. Servicing helps prevent premature wear of the internal components, ensuring that the watch continues to function smoothly for many years. During a service, a watchmaker will inspect the movement, replace worn parts, and address any issues that could lead to more significant problems down the line. This proactive approach not only extends the life of the watch but also preserves its value and performance.
Water Resistance
For watches designed with water resistance, regular servicing is crucial to maintain this feature. The gaskets and seals that prevent water from entering the watch can deteriorate over time, compromising the watch's water resistance. During a service, these components are inspected and replaced if necessary, ensuring that the watch remains protected against water damage. This is particularly important for dive watches and other timepieces that are frequently exposed to moisture.
Aesthetic Appeal
A watch isn’t just for telling the time (after all, we all have phones that can do that); it’s also a fashion statement and, in the case of your big-hitter styles, a status symbol. Regular servicing helps maintain the watch's aesthetics by addressing issues such as scratches, dents, and tarnish. A professional watchmaker can polish the case and bracelet, restore the crystal, and clean the dial, ensuring that the watch looks as good as new. This attention to detail enhances the watch's overall appearance, allowing you to wear it with pride.
Retaining Value
For collectors and enthusiasts, the value of a watch is often tied to its condition and maintenance history. Regular servicing helps retain the watch's value by ensuring that it is in top working order. When it comes to selling or trading a watch, a documented service history can significantly enhance its value and appeal to potential buyers. This is especially true for high-end luxury watches, where meticulous maintenance is a hallmark of their desirability.
When to take your timepiece in for a tune-up
Sam says that most manufacturers recommend a service interval of “between 5-10 years for a service, and water resistance tests to be conducted annually,“ adding that “Quartz watches generally require a new battery and gaskets every two and-a-half to three years and an overhaul and lubrication of the mechanical parts of the watch every third battery intervention.”
He explains that a typical service comprises “several steps,” requiring the use of specific tools and instruments that are tested and sometimes even developed by the individual brand. He breaks down these steps as follows:
“Once the watch has been received, assessed and the customer has approved the service estimate, the watchmaker begins work by separating the bracelet from the case and delicately removing the movement, still fitted with its dial and hands.
From that point on, the movement, case and bracelet follow separate servicing paths. The dial and the hands are detached from the movement, which is itself completely dismantled. Each component is carefully examined to determine if it is worn—if so, it is replaced with a new part.
All components are cleaned in an ultrasonic bath to remove all traces of impurities, before being dried. The movement is reassembled, piece by piece, in a set order, and lubrication is applied. The watchmaker then refits the dial and hands and tests the time keeping.
The case is also disassembled, and the parts individually re-polished to restore the case’s sheen and lustre, whilst removing any marks or scratches. The seals are replaced, then the crystal, bezel and middle case are reassembled. The bracelet receives a similar treatment to the case.
The watchmaker puts the movement back into the case and measures its accuracy once again, making any adjustments necessary for it to achieve the expected chronometric performance. Next, the case is pressure-tested and with the waterproofness test passed the service is complete.”
Just like a car, your watch will benefit from regular check-ups to catch potential problems before they become significant issues. Preventative maintenance during servicing can identify and address minor issues that, if left unattended, could lead to expensive repairs or even render the watch unusable. By investing in regular servicing, you can avoid unexpected breakdowns and ensure that your watch remains in optimal condition.
Where to go
Generally, a service provided directly by the manufacturer is best, as they have superior facilities, machinery, and focused know-how to service the movements they produce.
They also generally offer between a two-to-five-year warranty which would cover manufacturing defects but not wear and tear (service requirements) or accidental damage.
The service network can be accessed through the authorised retailer or watchmakers who are authorised service agents for the manufacturers—these are usually listed on the website of the parent brand.
Sam recommends Nairns and Pilbrows Watchmakers as two of the most experienced and well-equipped in New Zealand.
Cartier, Tank Française Chronoflex 18ct Yellow Gold Quartz Wristwatch. Est. $18,000 - $22,000
A Rare, Vintage, Cartier Tank Louis Cartier "Paris Dial" 18ct Yellow Gold Wristwatch, circa 1970's. Est. $20,000 - $25,000
Current & Upcoming Auctions
Webb's Fine Jewels, Watches, & Luxury Accessories department regularly brings timepieces to market through our online and live auctions.
Likewise, we are always on the lookout for special timepieces of exceptional provenance and meticulous maintenance.
If you have a watch, or any other form of timepiece you wish to bring to market please contact Sam or any one else from our specialist team.
We look forward to discussing your auction needs.
View all articles & videos here